An African 4x4 Adventure I

It was somewhere around 5 am that I looked up at the horison, always mesmerised by the dawning of an African day with it's deep orange skyline, black thorn treed outline and the cacophony of birdsong announcing the beginning of a new day. It was time. JOE and I were ready for this African adventure.Our destination was the famous Sani Pass, a tricky 4 x 4 route nestled in the mountainous range of Lesotho and South Africa.We left the dimming city lights of Johannesburg behind with no remorse and there was a tinge of excitement that echoed in JOE's throaty response as we cruised due south, toward the Southern Drakensberg (loosley translated - Dragons mountain) in Kwazulu Natal.

As we travelled along the nippy winter air forced me to turn JOE's cabin heater on.This did not deter us from our eager anticipation of the natural and mountainous beauty we were to experience a few hours later on.The highway rolled by, stripe for stripe, and Frank was singing "My Way" in the background with my mind constantly regurgitating the 4 x 4 route up the mountain - what would the weather be like, can we expect snow, sleet and rain, would the drop in temperature be too excessive and how would JOE negotiate the steep, slippery inclines going up and coming down? Images of many unfortunate travellers who previously had lost their vehicles and their lives due to the treacherous nature of The Sani Pass kept flashing by.The air is thin up there and mistakes are easily made...

Six long- tarmac-grueling hours later and our overnight stop enroute was at a self catering holiday cottage called Goose, overlooking snow tipped mountains and the lake at Lake Naverone, mirroring the majestic surrounds.The fresh breeze I felt on my face was a welcome gesture from the mountain gods and complimented the hungary smells of my supper sizzling away on the outdoor fire I had made. Life was good, I wispered to myself... After supper I decided to turn in for an early night knowing the next day was going to be tough climbing the steep, partially rocky, partially muddy 2800 plus metres up Sani Pass.Light rain pattered gently on my pane as I fell into a disquiting sleep.

The gabble of geese broke the otherwise morning stillness over Lake Naverone as I sipped slowly on a mug of freshly brewed coffee while staring out over the mountain tops.Heavy, grey clouds shrouded the highest points in an ominous dark blanket, almost warning me that there would be neither warmth or mercy from the Sani Pass mountain trail today.Having checked JOE's 4 x 4 safety equipment and rechecked the route stops up through the border post around the gorge pass and then up through the devils knuckle, JOE's idle humm reassured me that she, at least, was ready for the ascent into this frozen hell-hole and with my "gaurdian angel" under foot, the challenge was on...

JOE was from a breed apart from other 4 x 4 vehicles. On many occasions her kind surpassed experienced enthusiasts expectations and earned her the respect of many a pier.The powerful 3.2 litre diesel engine groaned into action and the off road tyres struggled to find their grip as we mounted the first hurdle, a lose and jaggered rocky 32 degree climb...this was nothing compared to what the Sani Pass had in mind for us later...

As we slowly snaked our way further up the Sani the air started thinning and the cabin steamed interior hampered our visibility of the shear side drop a long way down, lurking only a meter away...

Heamoroid Hill was easily negotiated and Whisky Spring was our first stop to get orientated and to check for any undercarriage damage.The surrounds of Whisky Spring was sublime and I could not resist splashing some of the ice cold river water over my face and taking in gulps of fresh mountain air. Still, my eyes wondered up to the dark shroud higher above which was ever warning of less pleasantries to come...

It was the aptly named Suicide Bend that revealed the first patches of snow on the dusty road up. Muddy pools formed on some parts of the gravel bordering the road shoulder. Suddenly JOE slowly started losing grip on the left side and when the on board 4 x 4 computer re-adjusted it's drive distribution it caused JOE to shudder slightly.The shear mountain drop was dangerously close and I was forced to apply brakes. Cautious and deliberate momentum is key to climbing slippery gravel roads and I was concerned about the possibility of going into a downward slide. A cold sweat started forming on my forehead as I re-applied fuel slowly, demanding more power and grip from JOE.Then, the unexpected happened, JOE started pulling to the right where the gravel was drier causing a sideways spin. We started facing the cliff's edge now, only a fraction of a metre away. I maintained the gentle demand for power causing JOE to shudder violently again, slipping dangerously close to the cliff side. Turning the steering into the bend had the preferred effect and JOE straightened her pull..."close call" I mumured, "need to give myself a Bells" for overcoming that obstacle.

The notorious Ice Bend was now fast approaching with visibility so poor.I could not help but wonder if heaven looked this white as well. Clouds engulfed this point of the Sani Pass and as I approached the hairpin bend I noticed that a waterfall that flowed accross the gravel road had frozen up all together. A massive white glacier had formed over the gravel road and there was no room for any u-turn. I caught a glimpse of an off-road motor cyclist who was sitting to the side of the road, head in hands and the motorbike lying on it's side in the middle of the road.I stopped. After ascertaining that he had been stuck there for more than 4 hours in the cold he got to his feet and I helped him push his motorbike to a drier place for him to attempt a drive off. My flask of warm coffee came in very handy and afterward Johan thanked me and was fortunately able to balance himself and ride further. It was JOE's turn now and the need to pick-axe a tyre grip spoor for JOE throught the glacier became evident.Even so, this was going to be trickier than I anticipated.Would JOE maintain grip or would we slide down the mountain edge, could the massive glacier move after my pick-axing a spoor through thus dragging us over the edge on a free-slip-fall?

JOE purred like a Persian kitten and the difflock-engaged gearbox distributed the correct amount of power to all wheels constantly. Except for a minor shudder here and there JOE triumphed the glacier with remarkable ease. The Lesotho Border Post appeared on the summit signifying the end of an exciting ordeal.We made it safely up the Sani today but a word of advice to the feint hearted...rather challenge the Sani on a clear summers day.